South Australia

South Australia is often overlooked by international visitors. There is so much to see and do but the highlights for me are Kangaroo Island, Barossa Valley and Coober Pedy.

Kangaroo Island

Imagine a destination so sparse of people that complete strangers wave to each other as their vehicles pass on the road. Kangaroo Island is the 3rd largest island in Australia with a land area of 4,500 square kilometres (155km long and 55km wide) and a local population of only about 4,200!
Visitors are not only attracted by the wide open spaces but the dramatic scenery and abundant wildlife. "KI" as it is known by the locals is a nature lovers paradise where you can observe many native Australian species in their natural environment. The island is much larger than most people imagine therefore it is important to understand the geography of "KI" especially for visitors with limited time. To avoid driving long distances each day it is wise to choose accommodation that gives you easy access to the attractions that most interest you.

Southwest Coast

Seal Bay is located on the southern side of the island approx. 45mins from Kingscote Airport. This is always high on every visitors 'must see' list and I have to admit it is one of my favourites. Here you can observe, at quite close range, Australian sealions going about their daily business. The department of Parks and Wildlife manage this beach to minimise the impact of tourists on the local sealion population so you must take one of the guided walks. This is actually a bonus for visitors as your guide will teach you about their behaviour and breeding patterns. The department have built a boardwalk over the sand dunes which makes access to the beach easy for everyone and also serves as a sunbaking deck for many of the sealions. We actually had to walk around and over some of the snoozing babies (who seemed oblivious to the attention they were attracting) in order to reach the beach. Most of the sealions on the beach are resting as they spend 2-3 days at sea continuously fishing. When they come back to dry land they are exhausted and rest for 2-3 days before going out again. Whilst the adult females are recuperating, the babies will then spend time suckling which is a cute sight. But it's not all peace and tranquillity, especially when a big male feels like a bit of passion. Weighing approx. 200kg and doubling their body weight during the breeding season these boys in hot pursuit of willing partner are quite entertaining.

Vivonne Bay is a further 15mins west from Seal Bay and is one of the most picturesque destinations on the island. It has been voted one of the best beaches in Australia. It is a popular picnic, fishing and surfing spot. The currents are strong so safe swimming is only found near the jetty. That's if you like refreshing water!

Kelly Hill Caves have guided tours of the limestone formations and is approx. 25mins west from Vivonne Bay.

Flinders Chase National Park: The far western end of the island is home to Flinders Chase National Park which covers 74,000 hectares and is approx. 103kms or 1:15mins drive from the airport. Rocky River National Park Headquarters is the gateway to the park and all visitors must stop and pay their park entrance fees here. The newly completed visitors centre is a must for self drive people. For visitors travelling without a local guide it will give you an insight into the history, geography and attractions of the park (even with a guide it is well worth a visit).
There is also the platypus viewing deck nearby where I'm assured patient visitors might get a sighting of the elusive monotreme (I think they were on annual leave when I was there).

Some of the main attractions within the park:

• The Remarkable Rocks are a cluster of huge weathered boulders made of granite that seem to defy gravity perched on the edge of the cliff. This spot can get extremely windy so hold onto your hat and small children.
• Admirals Arch is home to another seal colony and here you can see Australian Sealions and New Zealand fur seals living together in harmony on the rocky cliffs. The boardwalk allows you to observe the colonies from above. The seas can get quite huge here and it is remarkable watching the seals negotiate the 'washing machine' like water with total ease. The arch itself has been formed by erosion over countless years and makes a beautiful natural frame for spectacular sunsets over the ocean.
• Cape du Couedic is home to the lighhouse circa 1909. With the introduction of technology, the lighthouse no longer required a keeper to spend their life in isolation so the original residences are now available for rent. This gives a whole new meaning to 'getting away from it all'.

For visitors wishing to explore Flinders Chase National Park and the western end of the island my recommendation for accommodation is Kangaroo Island Wilderness Resort. This is a 4 star retreat situated on the edge of the National Park. The rooms are nicely furnished and have all the comforts of a hotel with TV, mini bar, reverse cycle air-conditioning, telephones and data ports. The balconies all look out onto the central grassy lawn area were wallabies congregate for their evening meal.
The restaurant has a cozy atmosphere and in the cooler months guests dine by the large open fire place. Whilst it is easy to get to the main attractions by self drive I found the best way to see them is with a local guide who can explain the history and spot wildlife I wouldn't have even noticed. There are several other places of interest that you can only get to with a guide as they are restricted conservation areas i.e the Grassdale National Park which is considered the "kangaroo retirement village" of the island. Here visitors can see hundreds of kangaroos in their natural environment but only with a licensed tour operator. Kangaroo Island Wilderness Resort have their own tour operation which have the accreditation to go into these restricted conservation areas and a day out with one of their staff really takes you off the beaten tourist track.

The resort was developed by and is owned by Allan Mellor and his business partner Jennifer Bowers. Jennifer has a PHD in Botany and enjoys guiding the tours herself especially with clients who have a keen interest in plants. Allan is an ex Cathay Pacific pilot who prior to flying Boeing 777 aircraft operated scenic flights to the island for VIP clients. Allan and Jennifer take the time to find out their guests interests and can tailormake a days touring to suit.
The western end of the island is home to some of the most popular attractions "KI" has to offer - staying at this end of the island will save you long drives each day.

Dudley Peninsula & American River: For visitors wanting to explore the eastern end of the island closer to the airport and townships of Kingscote or Penneshaw then I recommend Wanderers Rest of Kangaroo Island. This is a small B&B run by husband and wife team Robert and Margaret Bruce and they do a superb job. Only six rooms all look over the bay with their own balcony. Some of the touches in the room I've not had in some 5 star hotels including: bathrobes, heated towel racks as well as TV, mini bar etc. The dining room is very quaint with lots of oldy worldy touches like ornamental tea sets and figurines. Margaret and Robert are hosts, chefs and waiters. Breakfast is included in the tariff and is a fully cooked choice of bacon, eggs, sausages, tomato etc that will keep most people going for the whole day. The evening meal is additional and guests are asked to be seated by 7.00pm and introduced to each other by Margaret and Robert. Wanderers Rest is situated at American River, 30mins from the ferry terminal at Penneshaw and equidistant from the airport at Kingscote. All Sealink tour coaches pick up from here and our recommended tour company operating from Adelaide which is Adventure Charters of Kangaroo Island accommodate overnight tour guests here.
Attractions of the area:

• Penneshaw village is the gateway to the island for ferry passengers. The evening entertainment apart from the local pub is the penguin tour. See the little birds go about their nightly ritual, making their way out of the sea, up the beach and into their nests in the sand dunes. The beach is also clean and safe for swimming.
• Cape Willloughby Lighthouse was the first lighthouse built in South Australia and National Parks conduct daily tours.
• Pennington Bay has a wonderful surf beach which is spectacular in wild weather and the roar can be heard 9km's away at American River.
• American River has some great birdwatching: Black Swans, Cape Barren Geese, Australian Pelicans and the endangered Glossy Black Cockatoo. In the evening the noctural wildlife can easily be seen during a leisurely walk with a torch. Expect to see Tammar Wallabies and Brush Tailed Possums just down the road from Wanderers Rest.
• Kingscote is the island's capital and has a small cluster of shops and one of the islands only supermarkets.
  There are many more secluded beaches and attractions on north coast and central Kangaroo Island and these can be visited on day trips from American River.

How to get there: Access to Kangaroo Island is so easy by air, a 20min flight from Adelaide compared with a 4 hour coach/ferry combination. Prices for flights start at AUD$140.00 return with Regional Express or AUD$198.00 with Emu Air. The cost of the coach/ferry combination starts at AUD$98.00 return so for an extra AUD$52.00 you can save yourself 3.5hrs travelling time each way. Rental car companies don't allow their vehicles to be taken from Adelaide to the island so unless you are taking your own car then there is no real advantage in taking the coach/ferry. Rental cars are available at Kingscote airport and it is necessary to book in advance to save disappointment especially during peak season. The main roads are all sealed so self drive is easy.
If you prefer to take part in a fully escorted tour from Adelaide I recommend Adventure Charters who operate tours between 1 and 3 days. Here are the links to some recommended tours departing from Adelaide: Kangaroo Island Overnight, Kangaroo Island in Style, Kangaroo Island Wanderer.

Barossa Valley

If you enjoy food and wine and I must admit I do, then the Barossa Valley will satisfy the most discerning connoisseur. Situated just one hour north of Adelaide it is Australia's premier wine growing region . Established last century by German immigrants it is home to some of Australia's leading winemakers such as Seppelts, Saltrams, Wolf Blass, Orlando, Penfolds and Peter Lehmann. In fact there are over 48 vineyards both large and small to visit and one of my favourites is the boutique winery of Turkey Flat who produce a sensational cabernet sauvignon and shiraz that you won't find in mainstream liquor outlets.
Tanunda is the cultural heart of the Barossa with a distinct German influence. Today's Tanunda is also very much a mouthwatering choice of restaurants and shops selling German pastries, breads and wursts. An overnight stay is definitely recommended to relax and indulge yourself.

5 Star Country House Hotel: Peppers Hermitage Barossa Valley: This is the most elegant establishment in the Barossa Valley. Classified as a 5 star Country House with all the facilities of a deluxe hotel. There are only 10 suites and 1 apartment which are beautifully furnished and luxuriously appointed with huge down pillows and duvets, fluffly white bathrobes, DVD players, mini bar and complimentary port. The spa suites have the added bonus of not only a spa bath but a pot belly stove which creates a cosy and romantic atmosphere whilst luxuriating in the spa bath or sipping on your after dinner port. The guesthouse is run by husband and wife team Paul and Yin Knight who play gracious hosts to their discerning guests. The restaurant is intimate and elegant yet the atmosphere is relaxed. The tariff includes a fully cooked breakfast prepared by Yin who likes to surprise guests with daily creations. We were treated to toasted muffin topped with fresh asparagus, melted cheese, poached egg and tomato salsa accompanied by cripsy country bacon. A sensational start to a day of wine tasting... .

Adelaide

Adelaide is an elegant city with wide boulevards and is often referred to as the city of churches. The focal point is Rundle Street Mall where you will find a large number of al fresco restaurants and cafes similar to Melbourne. The other main dining centre is O'Connell St. which is situated in cosmopolitan North Adelaide. The Botanic Gardens are well worth a visit adjacent to the centre of town. The seaside suburb of Glenelg is a popular beach resort with locals and is a nice alternative to staying in the centre of Adelaide. Situated approx. 8kms from the city centre and connected by tram (the only line left in the city). There are trendy outdoor restaurants at the new apartment and marina complex including a great seafood restaurant called Sammies. I spent a pleasant afternoon in the sunshine dining on boullabaise and barramundi whilst being entertained by a local dolphin fishing for his own lunch.

Adelaide Accommodation

3.5 Star: Directors Studios Hotel - Good location in downtown Adelaide and excellent value for money self contained accommodation.

4 Star Apartment Style: Old Lion Apartments - Within easy walking distance of Adelaide's main retail, convention and exhibition centre or take the free bus right outside your door. Modern apartments contain kitchens with a microwave, refrigerator and laundry facilities.

5 Star: Medina Grand Adelaide Treasury - The facade is the original historic treasury building but the apartments are ultra modern. Elegantly furnished with all the facilities of a a luxury hotel as well as being self contained. The high ceilings add to the feeling of space. Excellent value for money.

Glenelg Accommodation

4.5 Star: The Stamford Grand Glenelg- Fantastic location right on the beach and just 10 minutes from the city centre. I definitely recommend the ocean view rooms to take advantage of the wonderul views. Enjoy the sensational sunsets over the ocean from your balcony whilst sipping a glass of fine Barossa or McLaren Vale wine.

5 Star - Apartment Style: Ramada Plaza Pier Hotel & Suites- The Ramada is in an excellent location on the Glenelg beachfront and contains one & two bedroom fully self contained suites offering either ocean or park views. Due to the spectacular views and magnificent sunsets, you would be mad not to stay in an ocean view suite!

Coober Pedy

If you are looking for a real taste of the outback or just interested in Opals then a visit to the frontier town of Coober Pedy is recommended. Opal was discovered at Coober Pedy in 1915. As a mining town its gained its name from the Aboriginal phrase "kupa piti" meaning white man's hole. The spectacular lunar landscape has evolved from the many mines creating dumps and shafts. Local tours take visitors down a mine and give you the experience of what it is like to work underground. Working and living underground is not foreign to the people of Coober Pedy. To escape the extremes of heat and cold many of the people choose to live underground in homes called dugouts which maintain a fairly constant temperature of 24C. Australia has 95% of the world's opals, most of which is mined right here in Cooper Pedy.

Coober Pedy Accommodation

3 Star: The Opal Inn - well located right in the centre of town.

3.5 Star: Desert Cave - see what its like to stay in an underground hotel. The hotel also has above ground rooms for those who prefer it.